Featured Research

from universities, journals, and other organizations

Simulating breaking waves

Date:
March 5, 2011
Source:
Delft University of Technology
Summary:
The SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) wave prediction model predicts the distribution of wave heights close to the shore. It was recently expanded to include the SWASH (Simulating WAves till SHore) model, which enables the modeling of wave behavior right up to the shore, including how they break and overflow.

Waves around a conical island.
Credit: Image courtesy of Delft University of Technology

The SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) wave prediction model developed at TU Delft has been a huge international success for many years. This model predicts the distribution of wave heights close to the shore. It was recently expanded to include the SWASH (Simulating WAves till SHore) model, which enables the modelling of wave behaviour right up to the shore, including how they break and overflow.

Related Articles


Over a 1,000 institutes worldwide use the SWAN computer model which is available within the public domain (GNU GPL license, http://www.swan.tudelft.nl). This model was recently expanded to include the SWASH (Simulating WAves till SHore) model, which enables the results of the SWAN model to be continued right up to the shore, including how the waves break and overflow.

Film clips

As this model directly simulates the ocean surface, impressive images and film clips can be generated which are helpful in explaining the complex underlying physics of currents near the shore, and how waves break on the shore. The advent of SWASH means, for instance, that for the first time it is possible to depict how a tsunami flows onto and around an island.

Safe

Dr Marcel Zijlema is the developer and point of contact for SWASH: 'In line with the Flood Defences Act, the Dutch Directorate for Public Works and Water Management needs to ensure that flood defences can withstand the type of storm which only occurs once every 10,000 years. The problem is that we have never experienced this type of storm, and we therefore don't know exactly how high the waves will be or how they will behave. A model like SWASH is excellently suited to giving us a better idea of this type of situation. As we can create a better portrait of the complex processes near the shore, we can better estimate the safe height for our flood defences.'


Story Source:

The above story is based on materials provided by Delft University of Technology. Note: Materials may be edited for content and length.


Cite This Page:

Delft University of Technology. "Simulating breaking waves." ScienceDaily. ScienceDaily, 5 March 2011. <www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2011/02/110228104117.htm>.
Delft University of Technology. (2011, March 5). Simulating breaking waves. ScienceDaily. Retrieved February 27, 2015 from www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2011/02/110228104117.htm
Delft University of Technology. "Simulating breaking waves." ScienceDaily. www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2011/02/110228104117.htm (accessed February 27, 2015).

Share This


More From ScienceDaily



More Earth & Climate News

Friday, February 27, 2015

Featured Research

from universities, journals, and other organizations


Featured Videos

from AP, Reuters, AFP, and other news services

Death Toll from Afghan Avalanches Tops 200

Death Toll from Afghan Avalanches Tops 200

AFP (Feb. 27, 2015) More than 200 people have been killed in a series of avalanches triggered by heavy snowfall in Afghanistan. Duration: 00:42 Video provided by AFP
Powered by NewsLook.com
Winter Storm Means Dangerous Driving in South

Winter Storm Means Dangerous Driving in South

AP (Feb. 26, 2015) A new winter storm is stretching across the south, making travel treacherous throughout the region. (Feb. 26) Video provided by AP
Powered by NewsLook.com
New York City Surrounded by Ice Floes

New York City Surrounded by Ice Floes

AP (Feb. 25, 2015) The freezing temperatures that have plagued much of the eastern U.S. haven&apos;t spared New York City. The waterways around the island of Manhattan are filled with ice. (Feb. 25) Video provided by AP
Powered by NewsLook.com
Raw: Widespread Flooding in Northern Bolivia

Raw: Widespread Flooding in Northern Bolivia

AP (Feb. 25, 2015) Bolivian Vice President Alvaro Garcia surveyed severe flood damage in the northern province of Pando, as people were evacuated from partially submerged houses by boat. (Feb. 25) Video provided by AP
Powered by NewsLook.com

Search ScienceDaily

Number of stories in archives: 140,361

Find with keyword(s):
Enter a keyword or phrase to search ScienceDaily for related topics and research stories.

Save/Print:
Share:

Breaking News:

Strange & Offbeat Stories


Plants & Animals

Earth & Climate

Fossils & Ruins

In Other News

... from NewsDaily.com

Science News

Health News

Environment News

Technology News



Save/Print:
Share:

Free Subscriptions


Get the latest science news with ScienceDaily's free email newsletters, updated daily and weekly. Or view hourly updated newsfeeds in your RSS reader:

Get Social & Mobile


Keep up to date with the latest news from ScienceDaily via social networks and mobile apps:

Have Feedback?


Tell us what you think of ScienceDaily -- we welcome both positive and negative comments. Have any problems using the site? Questions?
Mobile: iPhone Android Web
Follow: Facebook Twitter Google+
Subscribe: RSS Feeds Email Newsletters
Latest Headlines Health & Medicine Mind & Brain Space & Time Matter & Energy Computers & Math Plants & Animals Earth & Climate Fossils & Ruins